Wroclaw, the city of gnomes

Breslavia, la città degli gnomi
You see them on a bridge with a flower in hand; while reading, they kiss, while playing the violin; one works on a computer, the other is a veterinarian; yet another is withdrawing from an ATM; one is about to leave with his motorbike. There is also what the guardian does in front of the door that leads to their kingdom. These are little more than 20 centimeters tall statuettes, which represent one of the main attractions of Wrocław (Wrocław in Polish). In fact, if the town – located on the Oder river, 200 kilometers from the German border – has about 600,000 inhabitants, officially it can be said that today the exact number is 600,000 plus 385 units. 385 friendly gnomes who cover the streets of the city and who, every year, see the addition of new playmates. It all started in the mid-80s. Protest groups were organized against the communist regime who dreamed of a different life: what alternative life could there be, if not that of fairy tales, in a country where one could not express one's opinion? They started wearing orange (hence the name Orange Alternative) and launching their slogans to the world through graffiti featuring orange-clad gnomes . The gnomes thus became a symbol of protest . Today these graffiti have disappeared, but in 2001, to commemorate that historical period, the city of Wroclaw decided to install the first statuette in the form of a gnome, Sisyphus. In 2005 the second. From there, year after year, the gnomes have sprung up in every corner of the city . A special map has also been designed with which families and tourists can move through the alleys of the center in search of its small inhabitants, for a real, exciting treasure hunt . What's even more fun is that every tour among the gnomes of Wroclaw may be different, given that citizens, companies and local businesses periodically offer their 'ideas' of gnomes; the city collects the proposals and has the statuettes produced by a local artisan reality. There is thus a full orchestra near the music hall ; the diver near the water park; the lamplighter lighting the gas lamps on Cathedral Island, right at the base of the famous Tumski Bridge, which connects the oldest part of Wroclaw to the rest of the town. The 'hunt' is open all year round. At the end of the summer, a festival full of initiatives for the little ones is also organised. In winter, on the other hand, children enjoy dressing up their 'friends' to protect them from the cold. In this period, then, Wroclaw, also known as the 'city of 12 islands and 100 bridges' – for this reason someone has nicknamed it the Polish Venice – becomes even more beautiful, enhanced by the Christmas atmosphere . The historic centre, completely redone in the late 1990s, is illuminated and decorated with a thousand lights, while the Christmas Market extends from the Rynek (market square) to Swidnicka and Oławska streets. The stalls offer sweets, gifts, handicrafts, jewellery, ornaments, lamps, ceramics, candles, amber and silver objects, handmade toys, objects with folk motifs, pure linen clothes and bags, natural cosmetics and much more . There is also a gastronomic area with samples of specialties from all over the world (and in particular, of course, from Polish cuisine, with the delicious pierniki, traditional spiced honey biscuits, prepared for the occasion in the shape of historic buildings of central Wroclaw). Precisely in conjunction with the market – which this year begins on 23 November – the gnome Prezentus ('gift') appears in the square: it is said that he grants wishes when his hat is touched three times. What are we waiting for?

WHERE TO SLEEP

Hotel Patio – www.hotelpatio.pl

Children under 6 are hosted for free; facilities in the room for the little ones; play area and dedicated menu.

Art Hotel – www.arthotel.pl

Free breakfast up to 16 years old; menu dedicated to the restaurant. Weekend packages with entrance to the Zoological Park included for the whole family.

Hotel Duet – www.hotelduet.pl Boutique hotel near the market square. Rich breakfast; play area for children.

WHERE TO EAT

Pod Freda – www.podfredra.pl

On the main square, to enjoy a magnificent… Milanese cutlet.

Motyla Noga

Tapas and fish&chips inside the former prisons. Weather permitting, cozy interior patio.

HOW TO GET

Direct flights to Wroclaw from Bari with Wizzair and from Bologna, Milan-Bergamo, Naples, Palermo and Rome Ciampino with Ryanair. From other airports, convenient connections with Lufthansa.